Walking the Via Francigena--Pavia to Rome--2011

This is our prose/photo diary of our walk from Pavia to Rome in September and October 2011, and our visit with Italian friends in the area around Rieti north of Rome.

We flew from Walla Walla, Washington to Milan, Italy, and took the bus to Pavia the next day.

Leaving the Hotel in Milan on Saturday, 3 September for the 1 hour bus ride to Pavia.












We stopped for lunch at a small cafe and met a very helpful Pavese couple:
Guido who hails from Sardinia
and Maria from Denmark. They helped us find the tourist office, which found us a nice, reasonable place for the night just a few blocks from the center of town. We bought a cheap local phone for the trip and spent the rest of the day enjoying just a few of the delights of this beautiful city before setting out on our pilgrimage.






Here are a few photos of Pavia

Castello Visconteo

SUNDAY, 4 SEPTEMBER--PAVIA TO BELGIOIOSO

The day started overcast and cool, but began to rain throughout much of the rest of the day, occasionally very heavy. We got soaked to the skin, and decided to stay in Belgioioso at the only hotel still functioning there.

Leaving Pavia, we were bid an early good morning by this friendly group of all-night partiers.

Santa Maria della Grazia

San Leonardo

Mosquito-laden rice fields everywhere on the first couple stages.
Swarms of mosquitoes that didn't bite!

Young Swiss Pilgrims

MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 5, BELGIOIOSO TO SANTA CRISTINA

Much of this day is also spent hiking along fields of rice, soybeans, and corn. Cloud cover most of the day. We met fellow pilgrims at the Ostello in Santa Cristina, including an Italian couple that had been walking from somewhere in France.

TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 6, SANTA CRISTINA TO ORIO LITTA

The route was initially well marked, but after Campo Rinaldo, the waymarks ran out and we ended up plodding through a thicket along a small, overgrown canal. Finally we could see the tower of the Chignolo Po Castle which gave us some direction to head toward. Again after Chignolo, we ran into several contradictory waymarks, none of which led anywhere. After wandering about through some fields and jumping over canals, we decided to just go back to the highway (234) and fight the traffic to Orio Litta.

We spot the Castle Tower in Chignolo

Castello Procaccini, Chignolo Po

Alimentari La Locanda--A great family owned food shop in Lambrinia

Ostello Communali--The place to stay in Orio Litta
Villa Litta Carini

WEDNESDAY, 7 SEPTEMBER--ORIO LITTA TO CALENDASCO

A very nice day. Walked to Corte Sant'Andrea and caught Danilo Parisi's ferry across the Po. We were met at the ferry landing by a TV crew from San Marino making a documentary. Along with Danilo, we were interviewed by Professor Eduardo Paradiso of the University in Piacenza. A fun experience. We then went on to Calendasco where we stayed at Locanda il Masero--had a great meal and nice walk through the town.

Corte Sant'Andrea

Steve from Nigeria
Crossing the PoYvonne & Danilo
San Marino TV cameramanProfessor Paradiso

Sigeric's Footprint?

Leaving Danilo'sEntering Calendasco
Calendasco's Finest
Castello di Calendasco

THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 8--CALENDASCO TO PIACENZA

A very nice easy walk to the beautiful city of Piacenza with its many magnificent old churches. We stayed at the Franciscan Convento Santa Maria Campagna, where we were warmly welcomed by the monks.

The Po River Bridge leading to Piacenza
Sanctuario Convento Santa Maria Campagna
Santa Maria di Campagna, Piacenza







Chiesa di Sant'Antonio, Patron of Piacenza

Immacolata, Piazza Duomo, Piacenza
Duomo di PiacenzaBasilica di Sant'Antonio, Patron of Piacenza
Chiesa di Santa Brigida
Palazzo Communale, PiacenzaGetting Directions in Piacenza

FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 9--PIACENZA TO FIDENZA AND CABRIOLO

As we were falling behind schedule, we took the train to Fidenza and walked the short distance to Cabriolo, where we stayed with the very generous and welcoming family of Don Marek Jaszczak. Their home is next to a beautiful old Romanesque Chiesetta with some astonishing medieval frescoes. Dedicated to Thomas Becket, archbishop of Canterbury, martyred in 1170 by Henry II of England, the church was originally the chapel of a residence of the Templars. Nearby there is a very nice little factory that makes--and sells--delicious Parmigiano Reggiano.                                                                Duomo di Fidenza

A War Memorial in Fidenza
Inside the 11th Century Chiesetta in Cabriolo
Amazing Medieval Frescoes that were chiseled and plastered over.
Restored by Current Owner

John Paul II

SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 10--CABRIOLO TO MEDESANO

After a cold and foggy start, this became a long hot day, with several steep hills. The ostello in Medesano, in the Parrochia Don Bosco, is an exceptionally welcoming and pleasant place. An older lady who was helping us find the ostello had a terrible crash on her bike but seemed OK after a few minutes.

Chiesa di Costa Mezzana, en route to Medesano
Peter gets the Keys!
Morning coffee was especially enjoyable served by this friendly barrista!


Walking along this man's vinyard, he gave us some grapes and sent his son home to bring us some white grapes too.
One of the several short by steep hills as we are into the foothills of the Appenines!


Chiesa di S. Pantaleone, MedesanoPadre PioOstello di Parrochia Don Bosco, Medesano

SUNDAY, 11 SEPTEMBER--MEDESANO TO SIVIZZANO

Spectacular countryside this day, with comfortable walks up the hills, but wicked downhills. However, a very nice walk through the woods to Fornovo di Taro en route to Sivizzano, where we stayed at the Parrochia Santa Margarita. Here we met a terrific Dutch pilgrim, Arie, who had walked all the way from his home in Friesland.  Arie became a good friend. The sleeping quarters were in a very old stone cave-like structure that is said to have hosted Charlemagne during one of his adventures. The host family was very kind and helpful, and they opened a nice bottle local white wine for us to enjoy in the evening.

Chiesa Parrochiale, FelegaraYvonne and Friend


Fornovo di Taro

Chiesa de Santa Margarita, SivizzanoArie & Yvonne in our "cave" sleeping quarters

MONDAY, 12 SEPTEMBER--SIVIZZANO TO CISA PASS

A fairly hard uphill day into the Appenines. Nothing was open in Sivizzano when we started, so no morning coffee or breakfast. Arriving in Terenzo, we asked a young woman if there was a bar in the village. The answer was no but she gave us some fruit and found another young woman who invited us to her home for breakfast. Arriving in Cassio, we met two Italian pilgrims who had walked all the way from Trieste. We stayed the night at the Ostello Cisa.

Pieve di Santa Maria Assunta, Bardone

Into the Appenines

The first of our helpers in TerenzoBarbara, who invited us into her home for breakfast

Castello di Casolo



An odd sight halfway up the mountain!




San ModerranoBerceto Cathedral
San Rocco (Saint Roch in France, San Roque in Spain) A Patron of Pilgrims throughout Europe.

WEDNESDAY, 14 SEPTEMBER--CISA PASS TO PONTREMOLI

We crossed over the Cisa Pass, going from Emilia Romagna into Tuscany, and had a long but pleasant walk, mostly in the shade. Down the mountain through the Gravagnas to Pontremoli, where we stayed at the Capuchin Seminary. Ran into Arie, who showed us the way to the Seminary, which we were having difficulty finding.

Cisa Pass Santuario

Arie & Tom

Spanish Pilgrim

Pontremoli Cathedral

Capuchin Monastery

Capuchin Cloister

THURSDAY, 15 SEPTEMBER--PONTREMOLI TO AULLA

No hills, but a hard walk on an extremely busy, dangerous highway that we thought was going to be a bike path. We were welcomed at the Chiesa di San Caprasio with cold drinks and snacks. The ostello was just a block or so away from the San Caprasio.

Aulla from the mountain sideBrulla Fortress

FRIDAY, 16 SEPTEMBER--AULLA TO SARZANA

Only 18 km but very arduous. Nearly 1000 meters of climbing on extremely steep, rocky trails with especially tricky descents. As we approached Sarzana, we met an Italian artist, "BertiAngelo," who took us to the Convento San Francisco where we stayed for the night. We had a great tapas-style dinner and drinks at an outdoor cafe with Arie.

Red & white waymarks that could be easy to miss.

Santo Stefano di Magra






Yvonne with "BertiAngelo" at Convento San Francesco, Sarzana

SATURDAY, 17 SEPTEMBER, SARZANA TO LUCCA

We decided to bypass the expensive tourist area around Massa on the Mediterranean and took the train to Lucca. The walled city of Lucca is quite beautiful, but still too touristy for us. We saw more American tourists, more fancy shops, and more dubious antiques in Lucca than any place in Italy except Rome. Stayed at the youth hostel where met the boys from Switzerland again and another Swiss Pilgrim we had met earlier in Fidenza. Had a great pizza and vino rosso for dinner.

San Michele

Cattedrale di San Martino

San Frediano

SUNDAY, 18 SEPTEMBER--LUCCA TO ALTO PASCIO

Nice start to the day, but the skies opened when we reached Badia--huge downpour. After an hour or so, the rain let up a bit, so we walked on to Alto Pascio. We called a number in the guide and reached a very nice volunteer who showed us to the ostello, where we were the only guests for the night. Alto Pascio is a very nice town with a long history of hospitality for pilgrims. It is where the order of TAU was formed which has hospitals in Paris, Astorga, and Pamplona.

Leaving Lucca

Steve from Adelaide, godfather of Alex from Adelaide who we had met on the Camino del Norte in 2008
An Abbazia dating from the 11th Century awaiting restoration.Church of San Jacopo Maggiore (Santiago), Alto Pascio

MONDAY, 19 SEPTEMBER--ALTO PASCIO TO FUCECCHIO

A very nice easy walk this day, much of the time through pleasant woods, although some mud on the trail in places. The skies opened as we neared Fucecchio, but we found refuge at a very friendly bar where we waited out the storm. Stayed at the Abbazia di San Salvatore in a large empty room furnished only with tables and a single sofa. The cushions made for very comfortable beds, however. As we were leaving the next morning, we found a surprise breakfast laid by out for us in the entry way by the very welcoming sisters.

Overlooking Fucecchio from the Abbazia di San Salvatore

Abbazio di San Salvatore, Fucecchio

TUESDAY, 20 SEPTEMBER--FUCECCHIO TO SAN MINIATO BASSO

Another very pleasant short walk, although it was not always well marked. We decided to stay in San Miniato Basso rather than hike up the hill to the more expensive Franciscan ostello at San Miniato. The small quarters available for pilgrims were already spoken for, so we stayed in a very nice tent behind the Misericordia facility. We were accompanied by a very nice couple from Holland.

Leaving Fucecchio in the early morningPinocchio welcomes you to San Miniato Basso! Parrocchia Santi Martino e Stefano di San Miniato Basso

                                                                   John XXIII

As we walked past the fairly stark concrete new church in San Miniato Basso, we heard some organ music, so we wandered in just in time to be the only audience for a very nice organ concert. The organ builder, pictured in the middle above, was fine tuning his instrument as the organist, pictured on the left, played several beautiful Bach pieces.

The Misericordia Fraternity conducts volunteer work in the health field, including primary care and transport services for the elderly and disabled. For pilgrims, they offer four beds inside and beds for an additional 12 pilgrims in a very well appointed and comfortable tent.

WEDNESDAY, 21 SEPTEMBER--SAN MINIATO BASSO TO GAMBASSI TERME.

This was a long hard day that began with the hike up the hill to San Miniato proper. Constant up and down after that. We ran out of water and were saved by a friendly woman we met on the road who told us to wait. She returned a few minutes later with a two liter bottle of ice cold water. We met our Swedish friend Ingemar, and the italian pilgrims Savatore and Romina on the road. The three of them were a great help over the next several days. We all stayed at the ostello at Santa Maria Assunta just outside Gambassi.

Statue of Leopold II "Canapone"

Grand Duke of Tuscany



San Miniato Superiore




Economic woes probably stalled this restoration

Our first meeting with Ingemar from Sweden who became a good companion and friend




Gambassi Terme
Santa Maria Assunta, Gambassi

THURSDAY, 22 SEPTEMBER--GAMBASSI TO SAN GIMIGNANO

A very pleasant walk this day, with a number of interesting sights and stops along the way. San Gimignano is a beautiful Medieval walled "city of towers." Like Lucca, however, it is also very touristy and expensive. Salvatore found us a very comfortable, reasonably priced pension.

Two very friendly and helpful Italian pilgrims, Salvatore & Romina. They both helped us make phone reservations--making up for our meager skills in Italian.

Three more very friendly Italians who we spent a number of days traveling with. We admired their flag and they immediately gave it to us!  En route to San Gimignano, we passed through the Sanctuary of the Mother of Divine Providence at Pancole, which dates originally from 1670. It was destroyed by the German Soldiers in 1944 but was rebuilt in 1949. Behind the Altar is a painting, said to be miraculous, by Pier Francesco Fiorentino in the 15th century which represents the Virgin breast feeding.

This is the resident priest at Pancole, who showed us the Sanctuary
The original 15th century painting, and below, a modern statue based on the painting.

Brazilian tourists we met along the way

San GimignanoEntrance to San Gimignano

FRIDAY, 23 SEPTEMBER--SAN GIMIGNANO TO STROVE

A hot exhausting day for us. We had planned to stay in Colle di Val d'Elsa, but couldn't find the place that we had wanted to stay, so we walked on to the small village of Strove. Passing a farm in the heat of the day, the manager invited us into the courtyard for a very welcome cold drink of water. We stayed at the brand new Ostello Communale next door to the COOP Alimentari. We were joined by the Belgian pilgrim Thierry. Later in the day we met a woman from Port Townsend, Washington who was touring Tuscany with her three daughters.

Leaving San Gimignano

SATURDAY, 24 SEPTEMBER--STROVE TO MONTERIGGIONI

A nice walk to another medieval walled hilltop town. Very small and kind of touristy, but a very welcoming place to stay. We had made reservations for beds at Parocchia di Cristo Re, and were spotted entering the town by Costa and Angela, the dedicated Romanian hosts who were out shopping for dinner. They gave us directions and later put together one of the best meals we had on the whole trip. We shared the digs and the meal with a lovely Dutch couple, a Hungarian couple, and a French-speaking older Belgian man.

Abbadia a Isola

                                                     Up the hill into Monteriggioni

Parocchia di Cristo ReHungarian couple, Dutch Pilgrims Fred & Antonia, & YvonneCosta & Angela

SUNDAY, 25 SEPTEMBER--MONTERIGGIONI TO SIENA

A pleasant walk to Siena, a beautiful larger city with lots of tourists, but without some of the hokeyness you find in Lucca and San Gimignano; larger and varied enough to be entirely enjoyable. We had time to wander quite a bit of the city and stayed at the Accoglienza Santa Luisa. Suore Gineta, who also feeds the poor and runs a St Vincent de Paul operation, is a pure delight. We met Massimo again, a friendly Italian classical musician from the far north in Italy.

Looking back at Monteriggioni

Entering Siena




Duomo di Siena

Il Campo


Yvonne, Sister Gineta & Massimo

MONDAY, 26 SEPTEMBER--SIENA TO PONTE D'ARBIA

The distances are getting a little too long for us, so we took the bus to Ponte A Tressa, and walked on the road to Monteroni d'Arbia, then up the hill for a long walk through very dry and rather boring country to Ponte d'Arbia. We stayed at Casa Accoglienza Parocchia di Giusto e San Donato, where we met Julia, an amazing walker from Tewksbury, England.

Leaving Siena

Looking back at Monteroni d'Arbia

TUESDAY, 29 SEPTEMBER--PONTE D'ARBIA TO SAN QUIRICO D'ORCIA

We walked to Buonconvento, took the bus to Torrenieri, and walked on to San Quirico.  We stayed at the very nice Parrochia de San Quirico.  We passed through the beautiful townf Buonconvento.  The priest at San Quirico runs a very tight ship and gives lots on advice on which route to take--and to avoid--to get to Radicofani.  We met Julia and Massimo, but were surprised to meet Ingemar, Salvatore and Romina, and the three Italian men who we thought were far ahead of us.  They had taken a side trip to San Antimo and were exhausted from the long walk. 

Church of Saints Peter and Paul, Buonconvento A fascinating modern stained glass window featuring John XXIII, Martin Luther King Jr., John F. Kennedy, Gandhi, and two others I couldn't identify--surrounding the crucifixion scene. 

Arriving in San Quirico

 WEDNESDAY, 28 SEPTEMBER--SAN QUIRICO D'ORCIA TO RADICOFANI

Again, this stage is too long for us to walk in one day, so we took the bus to Bisarca (just a gas station along the highway) and walked up the long hill to Radicofani.  We stayed at the Casa d'Accoglienza San Jacopo di Compostela, one of the nicest and most welcoming places to stay of our entire Via Francigena walk.  We liked the little hill town of Radicofani a lot and found all the people we met there to be very pilgrim friendly.  The church in Radicofani was one of our favorites.  We met the usual group of fellow pilgrims we'd been travelling in sinc with over the previous few days.

Entering Radicofani

 

 Inside the Casa

Church of Saint Agata, Radicofani

Dinner at la Casa

 

THURSDAY, 29 SEPTEMBER--RADICOFANI TO AQUAPENDENTE

This was a long day.  We all went out for a traditional Italian evening meal.  We all stayed at La Casa del Pellegrini upstairs in a very old church.

Leaving Tuscany and entering Lazio, the last region we traversed en route to Rome

 Entering Aquapendente

 

The Neo-Classical Front of the Cathedral of the Holy Sepulchre--originating in the 12th Century.

The best thing about Aquapendente.

The unique Aquapendente Cathedral Crypt, which dates from the second half of the 10th century and is substantially older than the main structure

FRIDAY, 30 SEPTEMBER--AQUAPENDENTE TO BOLSENA

Another prohibitively long distance for us, so we took a bus to San Lorenzo and walked to Bolsena.  We had magnificent views of Lake Bolsena during much of the day. Stayed at the reasonably priced Pensione Italia--recommended by our fellow Pilgrim Massimo.

 

  

Looking back at San Lorenzo Nuovo

  

Lake Bolsena in the distance

 

Bolsena Castle

Padre Pio

Chiesa di Santa Cristina, Bolsena

San Rocco

SATURDAY, 1 OCTOBER--BOLSENA TO MONTEFIASCONE

This day was a very pleasant walk, much it through the woods with some nice views of Lake Bolsena in the distance.  The tourist office in Montefiascone was particularly helpful in finding us a place to stay and making reservations for the next several stages.  We decided to take a rest day; the sisters at the Monasterio San Pietro were kind and helpful, and allowed us to stay a second night.

 The first Roman Road we encountered

 Central piazza in Montefiascone

Marilu, who was amazingly helpful in the MontefiasconeTourist Office

More Roman Roads

 Monasterio San Pietro, Monasterio, where we stayed for two nights.

 

 

 MONDAY, 3 OCTOBER--MONTEFIASCONE TO VITERBO

Very pleasant walk, including a very nice section of Roman Roads.  Some of the walk, however, was on the so-called "white roads" which were hot and dusty.  The walk takes you along some unappetizing natural hot water pools.  A large number of vacationers were camped at the pools--many of them "taking the waters."  We spend this night at the Instituto Aadoratrici Sanque di Cristo.

Chiesa di Santa Rosa, Veralla

TUESDAY, 4 OCTOBER--VITERBO TO VETRALLA

Started the day walking through a rather unique narrow canyon.  Later in the day, we managed to get lost no less that 3 times, walking up two massive hills that left us in middle of nowhere with no more way marks.  We were saved finally by the large group of Italians we met first in Montefiascone--who were also lost but who nonetheless were able to re-find the trail.  The final insult was a long walk up a steep hill to the monastery outside Vetralla.  The rather rugged day was capped by an excellent meal prepared by the lovely sisters of the Monasterio Regina Pacis.

   

 

Dinner at Regina Pacis with the Italian Pilgrims

WEDNESDAY, 5 OCTOBER--VETRALLA TO SUTRI

 A good part of the day was spent walking through huge hazelnut groves, in the middle of which one encounters some huge old stone towers--dating from Roman times and the Middle Ages.  We had planned to stay in Capranica, but after a couple fruitless hours trying to find a place, we hiked on down the Via Cassia to Sutri, where we stayed at  the Monache Carmelitane di Clausura.

Old communal laundry facility

Through a wooded park soon after leaving Vetralla

We loved this wedding announcement posted on a wall.

War Memorial in Sutri

THURSDAY, 6 OCTOBER--SUTRI TO CAMPAGNOLA DI ROMA

As the walk was a bit far for us, we took the bus to the nice little town of Monterosi and walked to to Campagnano from there.  This was still a hard stage for us, with an enormous steep climb up into the town.  The large group of Italian pilgrims was also there and we all stayed at an only school where we slept on the floor on mattresses.  The is a very nice pilgrim friendly town.

Piazza in Campagnano

 Porta Romana

 FRIDAY, 7 OCTOBER--CAMPAGNANO DI ROMA TO LA STORTA

We took the bus to Formello and walked on to La Storta.  Still a tiring day--farher than the guide indicates.  Stayed at the Povarelle Sisters Convent where we found ourselves once again in the same room a Ingemar.  The accommodations are very nice.

 Some Italian Pilgrim friends

 SATURDAY, 8 OCTOBER--LA STORTA TO ROMA

Most of this last day of walking is on the Via Cassia, which is fairly treacherous on the first part, although you eventually get into the outskirts of Rome where there are sidewalks.  After 4 hours of walking, we decided we need to take a local bus in order to get to the Vatican in time to get our Testimoniums.  After getting them in the Sacristy of St Peter's, we walked on to the Friends of Saint James who maintain a wonder place to stay for pilgrims.  Among other things, the hosts wash the feet of all pilgrims and provide wonderful meals.  The hospitality is overwhelming.  Here we bid good bye to Ingemar, all our Italian Pilgrim friends, and set out for a couple days of seeing this beautiful city.  

 

 Preparing to have our feet washed

 Cardinal Peter Kodwo Appiah Turkson--widely believed to be Papabile.  He told us we shouldn't stand on either side of him for the photo because he would not separate what God had joined.  He also said he felt somewhat in exile in Rome from his native Ghana.

Pieta

 Washing the feet of a young German Pilgrim

 Dinner at Spedale della Provvidensz di San Paolo di San Giacomo e San Benedetto Labre, the Pilgrims' home in Rome spnsored by the Friends of Saint James.

 Roberta, one of the wonderful volunteer hosts at Friends of Saint James